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Grout  

  A grout joint is always needed because tile is fired at an extremely high temperature and the sizes between tiles will vary. For a grout joint of 1/8" or larger, it is recommended to use sanded grout or (floor grout), the sand helps add strength to the grout in wider spaces. For grout joints 1/8" or less, it is recommended to use unsanded grout or (wall grout). It is always recommended to use a latex grout additive (takes the place of water). This additive makes a harder and more resilient cure, as well as helping to lock in color, and to prevent fading, shrinking and cracking. ceramic and porcelain tiles will not stain, however, grout can, that is why you should consider buying a grout sealer to help prevent the discoloration of applied grout due to stains. Grout width and color selection We never recommend white grout to be used on floors. Wider grout joints give a more rustic appeal, however narrower grout joints are easier to maintain.  How to Grout   First, we advise using rubber gloves and waiting at least a period of 24 hours before grouting. Get one five gallon bucket and one smaller bucket. Fill the five gallon bucket with cool clean water. Open up the powdered grout and pour about 1/3 of contents into the small bucket. Add small amounts of water (or acryllic additive) to the bucket and mix with a margin trowel. Mix thoroughly to a thick and creamy consistency. If the mixture is too dry add some more liquid and mix, if too wet add some more powder and mix. Next, spread the grout diagonally across the joints using a rubber grout float. Spread it across an area of about 10 square feet. Submerge a sponge into the bucket of water and wring it out a dry as possible. In a circular motion using both sides of the sponge buff the grouted surface area. Clean the sponge by submerging it in the bucket of water and then wring it out as dry as possible. Take the sponge and make one long straight wipe, flip the sponge and take another long straight wipe. Clean and wring the sponge and repeat until the area is wiped down. Be cautious not to get excess water on the grout joint, as additional water will create shading. If grout haze exists the next day, you may use a slightly damp non-dyed terry cloth towel to remove any haze. If the haze is difficult to remove, try the product: grout haze clean-up. Grouting Porcelain Tile and Natural Stone It is recommended that porcelain tile and Natural Stone be sealed prior to grouting. The sealer acts as a "grout release" to make grout clean-up easier.  Sealing the grout   It is better to seal it than not. Sealers are very very good, however they are not 100% stain proof. You must wait 72 hours after grouting before you apply the sealer.  

Walls 

  The same principal to measuring area for floors is used for walls, be sure not to include measurements where there will be a window, door, or tub. Do not include square footage in the areas where there will be any windows, doors, tubs, bases, and medicine cabinets. Listellos and bullnose and trim Measurements for these items are done not in square footage, but rather in lineal footage. If you need to cover a run of 128" in bullnose and the bullnose is 8" long (128 ÷ 8 = 16) then you will need 16 pieces of bullnose, you should probably purchase 18 for waste.  Decos  If you decide to use these in your floors or walls, be sure to order less field tile (If the amount is large enough to warrant doing so). 

WHAT SHOULD I LOOK FOR IN MY HOME PRIOR TO BUYING and INSTALLING CERAMIC TILE?  

Kitchen Floors

 If you are putting ceramic tile in a kitchen. It is most preferable that the tile be put under all cabinetry for the following reasons: 

• 1. You will avoid "locking" in your dishwasher. 

• 2. If there is no base molding on the kick plate, your tile cuts will have to be accurate and the grout will always "crack" out. 

• 3. In the event of a leak you are more protected with the seal that the tile provides. 

  Many kitchen floors are replaced while the cabinets remain. If you do decide to put a floor down this way be sure to tile under the self standing stove and refrigerator. Make sure there is enough room between the top of the refrigerator and any cabinet. If you choose to "lock" in your dishwasher, be sure to purchase additional tile for the future. Make sure any door that swings in has clearance over the finished floor. If a door has to be cut down make sure it can be done. Be prepared to remove all wood base moldings and have replacements ready in case any snap upon removal. ALL SUBFLOORS MUST BE PROPERLY PREPARED WITHOUT ANY SQUEAKS, OR MOVEMENT - ceramic tile is not flexible, and when it is bonded to an unstable surface it will crack regardless of the thickness of tile and bonding agent. ALL SUBFLOORS MUST BE FREE AND CLEAR OF DUST, DIRT, PAINT, ADHESIVES AND  PRIMERS. Bathroom Floors   No tile goes under shower pans or bathtubs. The toilet must be removed and the tile cannot exceed the height of the toilet flange. The tile must be the same height or lower than the toilet flange. Whenever possible the tile should be installed under the vanity and always the pedestal sink. Doors   Doors may have to be shaved down to accommodate the height of the new floor. Steel doors may present a problem, if they open into the room with the new tile. Be sure you can modify such a door prior to making a purchase. Make sure any new installation of tile will not exceed the height of any sliding door tracks.  Windows   You do not need bullnose edging tile when you are butting your tiles against the side of window molding. Tiling inside a window frame is very common, make sure you are tiling over a true and sound surface. If you are tiling inside a window, which is located in a shower, be sure to make the bottom tiles pitch forward, so the water drains back into the shower area.  Walls   Do not adhere tile to a painted, or primed wall. You may do so after roughing up the surface, so the adhesive or thinset will grip. Never start by tiling with a full piece of tile from the floor up. If the floor is slanted, your tile stacked upon each other, will also be slanted. Use a level and draw a line approximately 3/4 of a tile high off the floor (you may vary the actual height, dependent upon how the tile at the ceiling lays out {You want to avoid sliver pieces}) . Begin tiling from that line up. Fill in the pieces at the bottom later.  Shower Doors  Shower doors frames are always cut and drilled into the wall after the tile has been installed. Installing approved wall board behind the shower or tub The wall board must always sit atop the flange of the tub or shower base. The wall board must never overlap in front of the flange.  Laying Out Tile   Prior to Installation, it is important to check the dye lots (or shade numbers) of each box to make sure they all match. It is extremely important to open up several boxes at a time, mix the tiles, then install them. This will help blend all tiles together and equally disperse any shading that may exist within the cartons. Laying out Floor tile  To avoid having sliver pieces along the walls or openings, run the tiles (using the spacers) end to end, and front to back of the room. Since it is rare to find straight walls in any home, you cannot start with a full piece against the wall. If you do, your tiles will not lay out straight. Find the center point of the room by snapping two chalk lines, left and right, and front and back. Line up the tiles two ways: 1) the center mark lies between two tiles, 2) the center mark lies in the center of one tile. Use these two methods to determine which look will give you the fullest pieces along all walls and openings. A recommendation for beginners is to cut and fit all the tile with spacers prior to mixing the thinset. Be sure not to tile yourself into a corner. Always work your way out of the room.    Cutting Tile  Using a hand cutter to cut tile is easy. Mark the cut you want to make with a pencil or dry felt marker on the surface of the tile. Put the tile on the cutting bed, with the handle score on top of the mark and then snap.  Setting Floor Tile  First, find the thinset that is appropriate to use. Use latex modified thinset for installing tile over tile, tile over plywood, tile over vinyl, tile over existing adhesive residue, tile over brick, tile over stone. Regular thinset for over sheetrock, backer board, or concrete, or a mud bed. Use the proper notched trowel, if it is a 1/4" tile, use a 1/4"x1/4" notched trowel held at a slight angle. Do not allow the trowel ridges to be higher than the thickness of the tile. If you do, the thinset will ooze to the surface of the tile and leave no room for the grout. The thinset should be mixed to a thick, yet creamy and trowelable consistency. We do not endorse adhesive to put floor tile down. You should use the straight edge of the trowel to fill in any voids on the back of the tile. Next, lay the piece into the evenly troweled area. Press down and gently twist the tile. Put the spacers in (two to each tile side for easy removal) and move each tile together. You should wait 24 hours before walking on and grouting the newly installed floor. Available as well are, fast drying thinsets, which you may grout and walk on in 3 hours. Also thinsets come in white or grey, the white is easier to trowel and is typically better for wall applications.  Bonding tile to existing tile  Make sure the surface is solid and sound. If there are loose pieces and cracked grout, do not install tile in this method. If the surface is solid, clean the existing floor with ammonia and hot water to remove any dirt, greases, oils, or films. Use the flat side of the trowel to fill in the crevices on the floor first. Then trowel the thinset on- using the notched side. Affix the tiles.